Bread and Jam
Bread and Jam. Sweet! The couple has married for about ten years now, and they still go together like bread and jam. White gold, .03 ct. diamond on the side. I wouldn't recommend wearing this next to another ring, as the diamond would scratch up whatever is next to it, and the engraving would wear down too quickly. She hasn't, and it now has a lovely age patina!
Low profile three stone Platinum ring
OOOOOOOOH. Three stone platinum ring. Love this ring. It has three bezel set, old mine cut diamonds, weighing in at .93, .29 and .30. It is set as low as possible, with nice weighted shoulders on the bottom of the shank so it does not flip over. Move right in and no need to ever ever take this ring off
A seamless combination of the flush mounted bands with a pretty bezel set .50 ct diamond center. It pulled all of the diamonds together that were in a white gold wedding set that had started to cause a rash on the customer's hands. Beware of nickel alloyed white gold, folks! I am seeing these allergies more often every year. So we took all of the stones, set them low and in platinum. They are again sparkling away on the owner's hand in a gorgeous non-allergenic metal.
Fish ring, platinum
Fish ring, platinum. A lovely pattern. This ring is subtle, comfortable, wears beautifully, and gets a lovely age patina around the edges while still remaining sculptural.
The psychic CZ Requiem necklace
After years of marriage, a husband died. Three weeks after his death, on unrelated circumstances, his brother in law went to see a psychic. This psychic could not get through to the channels she was looking for: as the recently deceased was clamoring the psychic to get his widow on the phone. The psychic said to her client- "it is your brother in law- he needs for you to call you sister RIGHT NOW, there is something valuable that she needs to look out for. So they get the widow on the phone. The spirit of her husband instructs her to go into the bureau that is in the corner of the dining room and find the valuable sparkly thing that is hidden in that drawer.
She went right home, and in the drawer she finds a cubic zirconia in its original packaging from the 1970's. They are not - let us just say - the most valuable stone right now. Regardless, we put it into a setting that showcases the importance of the stone that stayed in the land of the living.
Start with good ingredients, balance it well, and the result is almost always wonderful. This gorgeous gem jambalaya necklace is made with a lovely thick hand- fabricated setting, nine amethysts, fourteen small diamonds, ten sapphires, a yellow diamond, one sapphire and one rhodolite. We took apart a nice little pile of dreadfully commercial pieces of jewelry- several cluster rings, some earrings, all of which the owner would never wear any more. We sold the gold and used all of the stones in one necklace that she wears daily. This way, she still adorns herself with all of the random sentimental pieces of jewelry that were given to her over the years while remaining current to her own tastes.
Sugar treated opal and 18KY pendant
This lovely long opal has some wonderful play of color in it. It was very difficult to decide which side to put on the front of the pendant, so we made it so either side could be the front. The reds that flash out of it are really stunning, and it has an interesting line down the center that makes it half blue and half red. When something is this beautiful all by itself, set it in such a way to showcase it rather than confuse. Semi- black sugar treated opal from Australia? Don't mind if I do!
Smoky quartz ring
My guess is a smoky quartz, but many would say it is a topaz. Either way. This stone was an eighth grade present for a friend from her parents. Thirty years later, she wasn't into the big cocktail ring look, so we dropped the setting down low and modernized the look. We re-used the setting and soldered it to a nice wide silver band. This ring is a jewelers' version of reduce, reuse, recycle!
pièce de résistance bands
At first glance they seem to be simple, elegant
platinum and gold wedding rings. But only the wearers know the secret of what is inside. Each of these rings is filled with - carat of diamonds - .005 ct full cut VVS stones. Each ring has 100 lovely, high quality, almost microscopic diamonds sealed inside of them.
When you shake the rings, it sounds like snow falling. The platinum ring was extremely difficult to make, it was fabricated into a tube in two different parts. It took days to get it absolutely perfect. The 18K ring was much easier, but the challenge was getting it to be exactly the same size as an eternity band, not be too tall, and still have the room inside to accommodate all of the diamonds.
One is square in cross section, and one is round, as a nod to Leonardo Da Vinci's vitruvian man. The square band fits exactly inside of the round band. As it should be.
These rings are made from gold that used to be some really hideous jewelry. Melted it down, poured an ingot, turned it into round 10 gauge wire, carefully, annealing them constantly so they would bend intoclean round bands. I then hammered them into a "roval" shape. These rings are fun to stack with another ring in between them- a solitaire or an eternity band. Fun! They also look good just by themselves. Anything that is cast from an ingot does not come out as crazy perfect as something from fresh, clean metal- so the trick is to not overwork them, but let the imperfections be part of the design.
The first wedding rings were meant to symbolize love, in the way that it has no beginning and no end. That is why wedding rings traditionally
should be seamless. This is a pair of seamless palladium bands with a circle gently and unerringly stamped into it.
Mountain Range Ring
This ring is carved to scale of the mountains as viewed from Mt. Desert Island, Maine. The focus is Mt. Cadillac. The ring itself is sterling
silver and the mountains are carved out of 18 karat yellow gold, cut, fit, and filed to be a perfect mini replica of a beloved mountain range.
The Chugach Range Ring
In Homer, Alaska there is a spectacular mountain range, just across the bay. If you take a boat, you can be at the base of these mountains in five miles. If you decided to walk there from the nearest road, it would be a very long hike of about 200 miles. One of these mountains is particularly alluring- China Poot. We carved most of the mountain range in relief around the band, and made the favorite mountain be the centerpiece by making it all shiny. "Artistic license" was applied as to distances and placement. Not for navigation purposes,as it is not to scale.
These platinum wedding bands are for a couple that really mesh well together. We managed to get the height of the rings down to 1.2 mm. With the gears meshing perfectly, a comfort fit inside, and nice chamfered edges these rings are an engaging pair.
LiLi Signet Ring
I made this one for myself, with my logo engraved into the surface. The top is concave so wearing the ring will not wear away the engraving. It is more difficult to engrave a ring like this, but well worth the extra effort.
The top of the ring was very fun to make- a molten piece of silver was formed flat while it was liquid. Then it was hammered smooth, annealed numerous times, and dapped into a nice curve. The shank is one of those low dome tapered pillow shapes that I favor.
All in all, it is fun to be able to seal letters and parcels with sealing wax. And there is no problem with backwards or forwards- it is a symmetrical design that is the same in a mirror.
Platinum Fish Ring
We wanted to represent the wearers love of all things pertaining to fish- but wanted it to last. Engraving would wear down after a few decades, so this ring was made in a full carved relief. The indents make it very comfortable, as well as calming to the touch.
This is a variety of the rings fitting together concept- his ring is concave, hers is convex, so they nest together nicely. Both rings are 1/2 round on the inside, so they are comfortable on the wearer as well.
Cognac Diamond set in 18K
This.70 carat beautiful cognac diamond is set into a high karat gold which emphasizes off its stunning flashes of reds and greens. Que rico! The shank is as delicate as possible while being strong enough to last for many decades.
Is it a braided river? Is it fire? Is it a comet? This white gold, asymmetrical design sweeps around the finger starting with a .75 ct high quality diamond. Three smaller blue diamonds brighten up the stream like river rocks causing pleasant ripples.
Purple Star Sapphire Signet Ring
This ring was a re-make of the one that the owner LOVED and wore for 20+ years. One night, it flew off of her hand into the street, was run over by cars for a day or two. Her husband went out, hunted around, and FOUND IT! The stone is most likely a synthetic star sapphire, (a corundum) because it survived being run over. It is quite purple with some distinct rays to it. We carved a wax a bit sturdier than its previous incarnation, used the mangled gold, added some high karat gold coins and cast a ring that will most likely outlive all of us.
Domed Solitaire Ring
Nice and tapered, low profile, sturdy, and how does it show off this stone! The ring is platinum, the stone is a high clarity 1.02 ct. This
ring looks great with any size stone over 1/2 carat. Very classic and current while not being fussy. Comfortable to wear. Would be good for
a textile person or a knitter as there are no sharp edges to catch on any threads.
18K/ Garnet Ring
This design is about 2,000 years old, by conservative estimates. You will see ones very much like it in the ancient jewelry section of many museums world-wide.
The cabochon garnet is bezel- set, with two "lugs" on either side.
This design has an infinite number of variations in its classic simplicity.
Cushion Cut Lemon Quartz Ring
Cushion Cuts. Oh, how I love a nice cushion cut stone. This is a very pretty lemon quartz, set in a gold basket setting. It is nestled into a low pillow dome tapered shank and has a matte finish.
(a.k.a. the Willis Diamond Ring)
This is a fairly small diamond that has a small chip along the girdle (the outside edge). The diamond is sentimental, as it was a present from a friend long deceased. Re-cutting this diamond would not be worth it. It is set in an 18 karat band, with a platinum bezel, lifted up a little high so that the ring can be stacked with other bands for a nice overall effect.
Wonder Twin Powers- Activate!
Grandma had a diamond- 5 mm across, an older cut. Luckily the two Granddaughters (they are sisters) have the same ring size. The way they solved the who-gets-grandmas-diamond quandary is by deciding that they would share this ring. They trade it back and forth between each other every six months. That way, it ensures that they get together twice a year (they live on opposite sides of the country). When they were little girls, they used to put their hands together and say the seventies super-hero chant: "WONDER TWIN POWERS ACTIVATE!" Nothing happened, except in their minds . . . so we engraved this phrase on the inside of their ring to remind them of their sisterly antics.
It is a nice 18 karat gold band, with the diamond set in a low platinum bezel.
18K/ Ruby Cabochon Ring
Rubies come in all shapes and colors. They tend to be rather deep in their cut. In order to not make this one sticking out really tall off of the ring, we built it a bezel and nestled it in between two side rails. The resulting ring is large across the finger, but really comfortable, as it lets the finger breathe. This could also be made with two bezel set stones on either side. It looks REALLY good like that, a large-looking ring that doesn't strangle the finger.
Uncut Diamond Ring
This ring features an uncut diamond, about 1 carat in size, that was mined in Brazil. The stone has an off white color and lots of facets which occur naturally in diamonds. It is set in platinum, in a truly traditional manner. The unusual stone sets it apart while the traditional setting clearly states that it is indeed an engagement ring.
The Sapphire and Platinum Ring
A well done version of a classic design. A 5 mm wide comfort fit band is graced by round platinum rails on either side. The 7 x 5 mm oval sapphire is set as low as possible. It is a really pretty stone, with depth of color while still looking like a classic blue sapphire.
Some stones are just special, even though they might not be the most valuable specimens you run across. This stone is one of those. We put it into a tapered silver band, with a pillow cross section. The bezel has a clean 18 karat yellow circle running around it. All in all, a nice clean design for a stone that is worth admiring. Not sure what it is- my guess from the lack of wear, older cut, and subtle sparkle is a topaz.
Emerald Cut, Wide Shank, 14KT and Sterling Ring
What you are looking at is a large green amethyst, 12 x 16 mm, set into a 14k yellow basket setting, nestled as low as possible in a wide flat sterling band. This design was initially created to update a sentimental topaz that was in a bland, boring ring. The result was quite successful. Each of these rings are different as it has everything to do with the cut of the stone. This one is pretty dreamy!
Uncut Diamond Ring
This is a large uncut diamond, or "diamond in the rough" set in a traditional platinum four prong setting. It was tough to decide which way the stone should go in the setting, as so many sides of the stone are interesting. After much deliberation, the flat side went onto the top, and each of the edges of the cube was held firmly by the double prongs. Notice the nice weight of the shoulders of the shank of the ring. A satisfying piece of jewelry, unusual and traditional at the same time.
Flat in Every Dimension Platinum Ring
This is one of the most stripped down diamond rings out there. The shank is 4 mm x 2 mm, looks great in platinum or palladium. The bezel is straight sided, the diamond set as low as it can possibly go. The diamonds look great in this setting in weights from. .40 to .75. These are all .5o ct round white diamonds. This is a fantastic ring for the modern minimalist whose hands are always taking a beating from whatever they choose to be working on.
Heavyweight Tapered in Every Dimension Platinum Ring
This is larger version of the other tapered ring. The tapered shank is 4 mm across at the top, and tapers to about 2 mm. The bezel is also tapered, is as low as it can go, so as to be very comfortable and just showy enough at the same time. These rings lay flat next to their corresponding bands nicely. The stone in this ring is GORGEOUS, it is a VVS2 H color, ¾ of a carat, and as soon as I saw it I knew that it was the right one. It is extra sparkly in low light (how that happens we don’t know but it is really satisfying to see it). All in all, nice proportions, nice materials, really nice stone. Another reason that this ring is great is that it is really timeless in design- and we find it impossible to tire of good design and nice proportions.
Platinum and Beach Stone Ring
The clients knew a few things when the design process started on this ring. They knew that they wanted a luminescent stone in a cabochon cut. They wanted a moonstone- but somehow, I thought that putting a moonstone into a platinum setting seemed not right. So, I suggested that they go down to moonstone beach in South County, Rhode Island, and pick up a pile of beach stones. I have always been told that this beach is named after the types of rocks on it- they moonstones, which ultimately are feldspars, and glow incredibly in the sunlight. The stones there range from whites to apricots to all shades of grey. After a few runs down to these beaches, they found several stones that we all liked. (How is that for a stressful engagement ring center stone experience?) I constructed the original model out of silver, molded it, and cast the ring out of platinum. It is really heavy, weighs almost ½ oz. As instructed, the band will lay flat next to the shank. It is comfortable enough to fish change out of your pocket and really built to last. No stress about losing a valuable center stone either, just go back to the beach and find another! I like to think of this ring as a metaphor for a truly solid relationship.
Platinum Diamond Dust Ring
This ring is platinum, with a bezel holding natural diamond "dust"- white diamond maacles before they are cut. The diamond maacles are set behind a clear topaz cabochon. The curve of the topaz distorts the image slightly- makes them look a little bigger than they are- but it is good, as you can clearly see them move around under the lens.
Platinum Diamond Ring
Hard to see how pretty this ring is on the side. It is platinum, with a stunning 1 1/2 carat modern European cut diamond it it. It is set in a six prong tulip setting, into a three sided shank. (The shank has three sides on the outside, but is circular on the inside). This is a classic ring from the top view, while being more interesting than your basic solitaire from the side view. We had to do this diamond justice- it really is a breathtaking stone.
Monster Three Stone Platinum Ring
Three European cut one carat diamonds, each of them weighing over one carat, are set into bezels into a classic three stone arrangement. This ¾ oz of platinum ring has a European (weighted at the bottom) shank. Bling-a-licious! We love these older cuts of diamonds because they have larger flashes of color (fire) than the currently popular brilliant cut diamond. These stones have been in the family at least 100 years and have many interesting stories associated to their provenance. This ring is MASSIVE and almost looks fake. We can assure you- it definitely is the real thing.
Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Twenty years! Time to revive the engagement ring! We used the same parts- the shank and the center stone while sprucing up the side stones. The diamonds are .20 ct each, high quality, set in palladium, framing a 5 x 7 mm sapphire. It is a low profile, built to last, classic yet not fussy ring. It has just enough sparkle to cheer your day, but not too much to make you second guess any active endeavor.
Ode to Brazil Ring
She thought that an Emerald would work. Because she is a roller derby girl, she was advised against having an emerald ring, as it would
get broken in approximately two minutes. So we convinced her (and she says that she is glad that we did) to make the ring a nice high karat
yellow gold, with the center stone being a step-cut green sapphire. The side stones are high quality diamonds set in little platinum bezels.
The ring has a European shank, and it tapered to be thinner towards the top. Very suitable for the wearer.
Three Stone Ring
Three stone ring: Oh, how this is such a satisfying ring. The platinum is extra heavy...the prongs really hold onto those stones. And for very
good reason! The center stone is a 1.31 ct VVS2 H color from...CANADA! The side stones (.60 each) are from Canada as well. They are from the
Diavik mine and even have a nice maple leaf engraved next to their serial number on the girdle. A real showstopper. I would definitely notice this ring at about 20 feet. And it is even better upon close inspection.
Pink Sapphire Platinum Ring
Although this is made up of pretty basic elements, the overall finished ring is really satisfying. It is a matter of opinion as to if the stone is a ruby or a pink sapphire. It really glows more than most of the stones one sees around. Great cut, color, and refraction. My brother bought this stone in India close to 15 years ago. It has been waiting patiently in my safe for it to be the perfect gemstone for someone. The center stone is 5 x 3 mm, and the side stones are .15 point vs h color diamonds. The setting is handmade of platinum.
Sapphire- Diamond- Gold- Platinum- Reverse Tapered Euro Shank Ring
This ring has a center Ceylon blue sapphire of 5 x 7 mm. It has a nice, rich color and faces up well. The side diamonds are 2.7 mm each, set in platinum bezels. The type of bezels used make the diamonds look a good deal larger than they actually are. (Bonus!).
The shank of this ring is reverse tapered- meaning that it is a little wider in the back than it is on the top. The bottom of the ring is built out to be squarish. (This is also called a European Shank). This makes the ring more comfortable to wear and also keeps it from flipping over on the wearer's hand.
This ring used all of the same stones and gold from her original engagement ring of 20 years previous. Tastes change but good materials do not! The woman this ring was made for works with clothes and fashion, so she did not want anything standing out too tall, or prongs that would catch strings off of fabrics. Mission accomplished! It is a very comfortable and classy ring.
Sand Dune Ring, Platinum
How to make a wedding ring in a traditional, comfortable half round band shape, while still give it a one of a kind handmade feel. Answer: surface treatments. This treatment has the feeling of ripples in water or the vastness of sand dunes. It will wear well and was really fun to make. Sometimes, hammered bands can look kind of tacky- this doesn't in the slightest- just use a different hammer and the perception is entirely different.
This ring also looks GREAT in stainless steel.
Ruby of Rubies Ring
What a spectacular stone:
Good things are worth waiting for- the wearer of this ring has wanted a nice ruby ring for nearly 25 years. The center stone is a 2 carat ruby. The side stones are .25 points and .12 points, total carat weight of .75. I like the picture before the stones were set the best, as it shows the color of the stone and the detail on the sides of the setting. The side view is to show the shoulders at the bottom of the shank, which keeps a ring like this from flipping over on the hand. This is a really stunning piece- one that I for one would notice across a room.
Platinum 5 Stone Bezel Ring
Oh, This one came out so nice. The diamonds are all of incredible quality- they are very clear Russian cut. Total carat weight is 70 points, but the diamonds are all the way across the top of the ring. It is in proportion as this ring is a size 5 1/2. To bring down the "flippage factor", the shank is squared off on the bottom. It was fun to make, and when it was done, I really wanted one for myself.....
Three Stone Platinum Ring
The center stone is 1/2 carat, the side stones ar 1/4 carat. This ring is 100% hand fabricated- the center mounting took a whole day to make from flat rectangular stock. It is very open in feeling, and the sparkles are amazing, as they are GIA VS1 G color diamonds.
Platinum Marquis Ring
This ring is platinum, with a really nice marquis about 9 x 6 mm. It is set as low as possible to keep it from catching on things. This stone came out of a stunning tennis bracelet- graduated marquis diamonds all of the way around. The bracelet was taken apart and re-distributed. We put ten point diamonds on either side of the center stone to ease the visual transition into the shank.
Platinum Five Stone Ring
Made out of 18 karat and platinum. The shank is a hand-poured ingot. The diamonds came from various sources- so the extra circle around the side/ middle stones is for several reasons- to give it a balanced look, to make it extra comfortable, and to some extent, protect the settings and stones. The owner of this ring- well lets just say that a tourmaline would not fit her lifestyle,( we did not want her to have to take off the ring before jumping into a project) so we wanted to make her a ring that she could wear 24/7 with no problem. So far, so good. It is wearing quite beautifully.
Platinum Three Stone Ring
Center stone is .85 carat, very very nice stone. On the sides are four tapered baguettes (two per side). The side of the center bezel is open, so one can see the culet of the stone. it is a fairly beefy ring, and I have to try it on every time I see it.
18 Karat Gold Rings
The one on top is called the "29 forever" ring- it was made for a 29th birthday present, and has 29 scattered and flush mounted diamonds in it, of varying size and quality. (We found these variations to be a nice metaphor for the ups and downs in the years of our lives).
The lower ring was made for a woman who loves gardening, and loves emerald green. It also had to be able to lay flat next to another band. I warned her against emerald rings and gardening, but she was steadfast on her opinion.....so she got the emeralds.....I had told her that with daily wear she would be back within two years for new stones- and hey! I was wrong, it took ten years! Good, stable emeralds or gentle gardening, I guess...
Flush Mounted Platinum Scatter Band
How difficult it is to be random when most of what goldsmiths to is try to make things as straight and perfect as possible! This unusual engagement ring has 27 full cut diamonds ranging in sizes from .02 to .05, flush mounted securely into the surface. It is 5 mm wide and has an incredible weight to it. There is no other metal like platinum.
Flush Mounted "Spinal Tap" Ring
This band was cast from recycled gold into an ingot. We then flush mounted eleven diamonds equally spaced around the band. It can be interesting to figure out how many stones would look good around the band- this one has eleven- therefore we call it the "spinal tap" band.
29 Forever Ring
The 29 forever was a birthday present for the wearer's 29th birthday. Each of the stones is a different quality and cut, as they were taken from a multitude of sources. As a hopeful surprise as to what the future holds, we put one very nice diamond flush mounted on the inside.
Were the Beatles TRYING to drive us up the wall with this song? Probably. The joke is on us. This ring is made from the parts of a really ugly piece of jewelry bought quite reasonable at a pawn shop. We took out the diamonds, and melted the gold down into an ingot, and formed it into a ring. There are many of these rings out there- evenly spaced flush mounted bands. But most of the times, these rings have too weak of a curve (the ring is too low domed and wimpy) or the stones are too small. This one has just the right amount of curve on the top, and the stones are just the right size for the ring. When these rings are done right they are truly satisfying.
Twin Rings, Palladium
My friend had twins and wanted rings to commemorate their birth. She was so busy that it took us a few years to get the rings designed and made. She wanted something that doesn't stick up, that sparkled, and represents the similarities as well as the difference between her boys. One of them is somewhat ordered, the other boy is all about the chaos. Therefore, one of these rings is measured and even, and the other is scattered all over the place. It also represents the overall condition at her house: when one twin is calm, the other is having a moment. Another aspect of these rings that is interesting is that they are made out of palladium- one of the members of the platinum family. It was fascinating to work with palladium and to see the differences in how it behaves. I like it as a metal to work with. These rings look great on my friend and it is fun to see her wearing them on her always busy hands.
Another example of how fun the roman numeral series can be. This is an 18 karat ring, with II-XII-MCMLXIX carved out of the shank. There are little diamonds in between each of the dates instead of dashes and dots. It wears beautifully and is a fun reminder of a special occasion that comes every year.
The Knitting Rings
These rings truly were a joint design effort. They were made for a 20th wedding anniversary, when people often have a well defined sense of personal style. She is a knitter and likes repeating patterns. She doodles repeating patterns whenever filling in extra space on a page. She had sent me some patterns that she liked from knitting books. This was the point of departure- the rest of it was based on what I could make out of chasing tools and a leatherworking set of punches. Many of the tools were custom made and sharpened to get the shapes just right. These patterns are loosely based on a popcorn knit. The rings are platinum. Hers has a .65 point VS1 diamond, with .04 point diamonds bead set in between each set. These rings truly suit the wearers and will wear beautifully.
The Secret Alphabet Ring
This band departs from symmetry. This departure can be tough on some personality types. The start was the knitting series, while putting hidden message on a band. I wanted to make an initial ring without it looking like an initial ring. In reality, it could be called the graffiti ring- because often graffiti text can be difficult to unravel, until you know what it says, and then it pops right out at you. Since this ring was completed, much fun has been had subtly stamping writing and messages into bracelets and bands. Inventing secret alphabets is always a good time.
Snow Angel Ring
This band is another study of knitting patterns, this one looking like snow angels (if you squint and use your powers of imagination). It is a loose, fun pattern and a comfortable ring.
This is not hung up on perfection in any way, just like a snow angel should be.
Roman Numeral Ring
Sterling silver, 18 karat bezel, and a garnet. It was a birthday present, with the birthday engraved on it. The numerals have lots of breathing room, so it came out very well.
The First Pair of Roman Numeral Rings
The idea came from their wedding favors, which were little goody bags with the wedding date in roman numerals on it. These rings are platinum. Her ring has raised and abstracted numerals, his are engraved into the band. In theory, it would work as a complimentary pair as does the gear rings. The pair does suit each other as well as individually standing out on their own.
Roman Numeral Rings
This pair is in white gold, with the couples' wedding date engraved on the outside. Her ring has a .33 ct diamond set in a white gold bezel.
Sundial Signet Ring
The front of the sundial signet ring should have a design that refers to what is going on inside of the ring. So I sawed out a little sun, lightly domed it, and soldered it into the cavity. This is interesting because it creates shadows which is, in a way, what makes this ring tell time. This particular ring lives in New Zealand and is set to the latitude of Auckland.
18 Karat Gold Sundial Rings
These rings are latitude-specific. It took quite a while to figure out how to make these rings really work. This is based on an ancient design- they work by laying the ring flat on its face (the top) and pointing the hole (in the shank) at the sun. The spot of sunlight illuminates lines engraved on the inside of the ring. Worn by two people, the wearers could arrange meetings to a certain line on the inside. The first pair of sundial rings I made for the latitude of Providence, RI. However- this pair is a huge improvement on the first model. Rather than being a traditional crest ring shape, these use a simple flat spot on the top to tell the time. Her ring fits uncannily well inside of his ring- I love it when that happens...Plus- this pair of rings reside in Santa Fe, NM, where the sun is almost always shining so they can use these rings most of the time!
Sundial rings, palladium
These palladium sundial rings were made to be accurate to the 39th parallel. This pair is extra perfect and functional because the model was made in cad-cam. Not sure I would catch a plane with the time they tell, but overall a professional upgrade to the sundial series.
2 Carat Diamond, Platinum, 3 Carats of Rubies Ring
With outstanding stones such as these, the resulting ring had to be worthy. This 2 carat diamond is one of the most beautiful stones I have ever seen. It is a Modern European Cut of incredible proportions with a brilliance that illustrates clearly why diamonds are the king of stones. The rubies are a well matched pair, and are three carats total weight.
Side by side, these three stones cover almost an inch from end to end. The tricky part of this is to make a ring that is wearable for every day by bringing down the height so you could, say, put on a pair of gloves easily. This ring is exactly as tall as the diamond is wide- which leads it to having really natural, comfortable lines.
The ring is pure platinum, with three basket settings made extra sturdy for the precious cargo they are carrying. The shank is squared off at the bottom to keep the diamond on top.
To my taste, this is one of the nicest rings that I have ever had the pleasure of making. It is graceful, yet more than strong enough. The stones are quite large, yet it is incredibly comfortable. The proportions are really pleasing. Maybe someday I will have one just like it.
18K Sundial Ring
A ring that tells time! No way! Sundials are specific to latitude. This one is set to Paris. It is a signet ring. One can make impressions with the top using sealing wax. The resulting design is a side view of the ring. It ends up being like one of those infinite mirrors- an impression of an impression of an impression. If you put the ring down flat on a surface, and position the hole in the shank to the sun, it lights up the lines that are engraved on the inside to tell you what time it is in your part of the world.
A nice pair of 18 karat yellow sundial rings, tuned to the latitude of Orange County, California.
This is a necklace that represents a graphic of a side view of a sundial ring. The intention of it was to make a wax seal necklace. Its OK, has a nice curve to it and a nice weight, maybe with some age it will be a little more exciting.
14 Carat Blue Sapphire
It came, we saw, we loved...and constructed a nice necklace to show off this man-made 14 carat trillion cut blue sapphire. If this was a natural stone it would be famous and have a price tag to match. As a man-made stone, it is optically, chemically and physically identical to any museum quality sapphire but able to be enjoyed by the rest of us. All of the gorgeous blue light of a fine gem pours out of this necklace.
Blue (Topaz?) Teardrop Pendant
A.K.A. “Stuck a feather in his hat and called it macaroni” necklace. This blue stone had a previous life in an ugly ugly ring. We cut the setting off, soldered it into one of our teardrop rune necklaces, re-set the stone and called it a day. Modern but not stark, this necklace will get lots more time out and about than the previous ring ever did.
Double Diamond Lemon Twist Maker
Q: What do you get someone who has everything they need? A: You pay attention to what they do daily and go from there. The recipient of this super duper “double diamond lemon twist maker” had given me two cubic zironia to “make him something out of”. CZ’s are not the most inspiring of stones. So when his lemon twist maker’s handle started to get loose, we carved a new one out of walnut, riveted it tight, and set those pesky cubic zirconia onto either side. Whatever we can do, we do, to make every day just a little more enjoyable.
Ring Within a Ring Locket
Relationships run their course, and sometimes there is nothing you can do to change the end result. Years later, you might see the rings that symbolized the commitment, stashed into a drawer or a random box somewhere. These mementoes give you a start, and send you back to thinking, sometimes when you don’t want to. Sometimes it feels wrong to sell these bands, because one truly did value the person or the experience. It also feels wrong to tell the world all about what happened within that relationship- best to keep it to yourself. With these sentiments in mind was designed a “ring locket”- a locket that is a ring- a ring encased within a ring. The wearer can keep their memories close and compartmentalized from others and still be able to privately ruminate over their own past.
In honor of a sweet, sweet, cat that lived a good long life, we picked out the nicest whitest pieces from her ashes. These are lightly mixed in with obsidian, white moonstone, grey moonstone, tourmalines, some faceted and some uncut (rough) diamonds. They are set in a handmade setting in domed mineral glass. There is a nice beachy feel to this piece. First glance reads as coral or shells not remains of beloved kitty cat. This pendant is a good requiem to a furry friend that is missed every day.
Yes- it is what it looks like.
This is my sister's wisdom tooth, set in a ring, with a diamond set down into it. There was an indentation in the tooth that looked like it really needed something- the idea to put a diamond in there came from Mick Jagger. I was told that he has a diamond set into one of his fillings. Can't say if it is true or not. But, the concept is a good one, as teeth are for grinding, and nothing pulverizes better than diamond. Many people are truly horrified by this ring. Oh well.
Wisdom Tooth Earrings
The ring came first. Then- I needed a halloween costume in a jiffy- decided to be the tooth fairy-still had two more of my sisters' wisdom teeth- so I flattened out the back, made some bezels and soldered them up. Funny thing about these earrings, from even at close range they look like carved ivory roses.
Another TOOTH Ring!
It is really strange that this does not bother me in the least to handle other people's teeth. It should be the nastiest job in the world. Nope. Total disconnect. This tooth ring has no diamond in it-and could lay pretty low in the setting. Very custom cut and custom made. Who knew?
Requiem Necklace, Yellow
This pendant is a requiem for a deceased sister. We encased her ashes in an 18 karat yellow bezel and put in lots of small diamonds to sparkle her up. They are visible through domed mineral glass. Very subtle,very pretty.
Requiem Necklace, White
There is a long tradition of requiem jewelry - special pieces that have anything from paintings of a person's eye, ear, or nose, to hair showcased in a locket. The piece is so personal that only the wearer will know exactly what it is. This 14 k white gold necklace has two pieces of domed mineral glass encasing a beloved's ashes mixed with small white diamonds. The overall effect is peaceful and quiet.
Loosely forged sterling silver cuff bracelet is domed to be the epitome of comfort. The stone is a fine orange green color faceted chrysoberyl. It is set into a bezel, nestled into the birch-bark looking hammer marks.
Fleur de Lis pendant
Heavy. Tactile. Calming. Ancient looking. Some old gold was recycled by melting it into a carved charcoal block, and then pressed into the form with a graphite rod. This is a very loose technique- it can take many many tries before the molten metal gives you the look that you want. Once it comes out with the proper forms and enough detail, we soldered on a jump ring and bail, and burnished the high spots to give it a golden gleam. Set the diamond, and voila! It looks like an ancient coin or a wax seal. Very satisfying to wear about and far more gratifying than a pile of unworn jewelry crammed into the back of a jewelry box.
North Star Charcoal
The charcoal casting technique is loose, ancient looking and a great re-use for not entirely clean gold scrap. This one is a carving of a Compass Rose or North Star. It is about 1 CM across (about the size of an M & M) and has a small white diamond set into it.
Forged Wide Cuff
Start with a nice wide sheet of sterling, anneal it, and with a hammer gently form it into the desired form. Then polish another hammer-face, and planish it until the surface is gleaming with tiny facets. The resulting piece has a gorgeous finish while the sterling been tempered to have a nice surface tension. Bend it open, and it always goes back into its form. Forging can be fun. The malleability and ductility of silver makes it a low impact high reward metal to make bold pieces like this one out of.
Baby and Me Earrings
Soft, gentle curves that you cannot feel on your ears. These are put them on and forget about it earrings. They are 18 karat yellow lentil shapes, with two diamonds bezel set in platinum. Threaded posts with these wonderful earring backs that prevent the earrings from becoming too tight on the ear lobe. Comfy!
Enrik's Baby Cup
This is the cup I hand forged for my son for his first birthday. This was once flat sterling silver sheet. It was made in the traditional metalsmithing manner- hours and hours of planishing (light hammering),and then careful fitting and filing. The handle is inadvertently a diagram of "the golden mean"...which must be an image burned into my brain while studying divine proportions. I forged it and then found it doing some research the very next day. It was a little spooky. Lovingly hand-engraved by master engraver Ernie G.
Teacup Grandma's Bracelet
This is a take on the Mother's charm bracelet, made for a Grandmother with the names and birthdates of each of her children's children engraved on each sterling silver teacup.
Tapered in Every Dimension Platinum Ring
This ring is in proportion from every dimension. The shank is tapered, 3.3 mm at it widest point. The bezel is also tapered. This stone is about ½ carat or .50 points with a very high clarity. A nice setting for a stone of a modest size. The owner wanted a ring that wasn’t too big, wasn’t too small, and the end product we feel is exactly that.
These photos were taken ½ hour before the ceremony, so, as that is not the most relaxed time in the world, these photos are TERRIBLE. Sorry about that. These rings were probably the most simple design process ever experienced. They said that they loved the ocean and wanted rings that were contrasting in color. It took about 10 minutes to solidify the design of the ring. This is worth mentioning because it is rarely that easy! His ring is 18 karat yellow, with a wave hand engraved all of the way around. The engraving is extra deep so that it will wear well. Her ring is platinum, engraved extra deep as well, to accommodate a 22 karat gold inlay into the line. With time, her wave may become more visible. All in all this pair of rings are very subtle while still remaining interesting and comfortable.
Platinum Gear Ring
This is one of a pair of wedding bands. Its really nice, one of the pair fits into the other really beautifully. I am proud of this ring, in the way that the pair works as gears that mesh together, yet it is only 1.2 mm high! I was worried that it could be uncomfortable as wedding bands, but we took down the height as much as possible, and they are quite a pair.
It is just such a calming form that it seemed like a good idea to put on a cufflink- as some black tie affairs can be a bit stressful for some of us.
Lily Pad Pearls (a.k.a. smoogelyglobs)
This came from the back side of some family crest pieces. This piece was formed by taking molten silver, pouring it into a charcoal block with a circular depression cut into it. While the silver was molten, I pushed it down into the block with a wooden dapping tool....the tool smoked and burned into nothingness, but the result was the pleasing base of this piece. I then placed the top sphere (that I had previously balled up and flattened out a little bit), and soldered it onto the back, in a spot that I thought looked peaceful. This series looks great with a little age patina on it.
Lily Pad Pearl Cufflinks
They lay niceley on the shirt. Also available in a choker necklace and a ring. I am quite partial to the ring.
High School Special
This pendant is a small representation of what my jewelry looked like 25 years ago. It was fun to make up an old design....There are alot more of these sorts of forged/ bent/ bezel set jewelry where this came from. Who knows? maybe I will have the time someday to open the old sketchbooks and bring some of the better designs to life.
What to do, what to do, when you have a parcel of stones that do not really inspire you to make a stunning one of a kind piece, but collectively they are breathtaking? Come up with a way to enjoy them as they are! This pendant is wonderful to play with and admire. It really
gets you to get small look at the tiny details in all of these faceted stones. This necklace includes blue sapphires, rubies, pink sapphires,
diamonds, and a tanzanite. When you shake it with the front facing downward all of the tiny diamonds come up to the front of the glass. One
of my favorites. I made myself one within a few days of delivering it and wear it all of the time.
Signature Stamp Necklace
Something personal, something tactile, and something one of a kind. This necklace is a carved relief of the first letter of the customer's signature. We carved it in reverse in a charcoal block, melted a piece of silver, poured it into the mold, and pressed it with another piece of charcoal. The resulting piece of silver looks and feels like an old coin, but has a design that is even more personal and specific than a snowflake: ones own signature.
MMX Cuttle Fish
This was designed and partially executed on New Year's Eve, just last month. This year is MMX, so I figured out an abstraction of these letters and poured it into cuttle fish. It looks like wood and is definitely one of a kind.
MMX Charcoal Block
Again, the MMX that was designed on New Year's Eve. This one was carved into a charcoal block and pushed into the carving while molten with another piece of carbon. The result is a very tactile ancient feeling touchstone that celebrates all of the hope that we have for this year, and significant rites of passage that have or will occur in this year.
The Finnish Romantic Style Necklace
The hand forged, fluted, scrolled, hand wrought necklace. This is a design that had its first explorations 20 years ago. It started with just the center section being attached at two points to a chain. 2 decades later, when I revisited this idea, it was amazing how much easier it was to make and how well they come out. Only four of these exist in the world at this time: one has a center three carat green sapphire with 5 mm blue sapphires on each forged link up the chain: another lives with my friend North of the arctic circle, another has a gorgeous citrine with an 18k yellow bezel, and this one is mine- it has an iolite cabochon in it and I wear it all of the time. While on a ferry boat in the Baltic sea, a woman was staring at me the whole time. After awhile, I realized that she was staring not at me but at my necklace. Then it ceased to be odd, as this hand wrought necklace pays homage to the Nordic romantic style of decorative arts. Approximate cost $750.
Lily of the Valley Necklace
This lily of the valley was molded from an antique bracelet, made of shellac in the 1860's in Europe. the owner of the piece wanted it re-made in metal, in case something happened to the original, she would still have a mold of the design. I find it to be very pretty.
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© 2012 LeeAnn Herreid